July 2002 20th Anniversary Year Selected Articles

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From the President to the N. F.K C. Members: 

To the members who don’t know we now have the pond tour on video VHS tape. It is in our video library or if you prefer we can sell you a copy. Till we meet again, Tim Gasson

 Secretary's   Report By Todo  At 2:00 PM Tim called the meeting to order and gave our attractive picture frames for the fathers in the club in honor of Father’s Day followed by appoval of the treasure and sectratry’s reports.

Jan Brown reported on the recent pond tour which lead into a discussion on whether we sould have a fall pond tour, in hopes of having a better showing. Several of the members who were stops on the tour said they were willing to do it again, perhaps in Sept. Todo pointed out that the board had not discussed the matter yet and the issue of another pond tour this year was tabled pending examination by the board.

Changes to AFKAPS were announced, which included moving the show tanks to a more open site next to the hotel, having a club table and the John Canfield and Ray Cornell are co-chairs.

Jim Roberts talked about the fall show. He said he needed a vote by the membership on whether a two-day show was what they wanted or did he have to plan for a one day show. Tina Stogsdill and Shirley Stone raised questions on the logistics of a two-day show, but in the end the club voted overwhelmingly to go with the extended format.

Todo handed out club information packets to new club members and membership lists to all. C.R Carter had the pond tour video he made for the club and it was shown during the meal time. Jon Lockerman announced a mini-seminar with Dr. Yosha on June 22 at Rick O’Shea’s house. (See article). Tim announced a field trip to Black Water Creek fish farm in August. The date for the trip had been changed to 17 Aug. The members agreed to caravan down. We had a fine presentation by Penny O’Donald on making fake rocks for our ponds. We thank her for her talk and for becoming a member of the club. 40 members and guest attended.

BUYING A NEW GOLDFISH
1. Needless to say, do not even look at fish in tanks where there are floating fish. Fish do die, but floating dead fish indicates the pet shop doesn't care AND the dead fish is shedding disease in the tank to the other fish. Most Goldfish will eat dead fish. Do not buy from a tank where you see fish that are drifting with the current either. Also consider that in most pet shops the water from all tanks is centrally processed, so anything 1 fish in 1 tank has, they all have.

2. Look for a fish that swims easily. If you have Jo Ann's tape, there are different "styles" of easy swimming for different fish. A long fin Demekin does not swim in a straight line like a ryukin does. Healthy fish (small to medium sized ones) spend most of their time "booking" around, looking for this and that. Look for the one that is busy, busy, busy.

3. Watch to make sure that none are doing a lot of yawning, a symptom of oxygen deprivation, perhaps gill problems or current medications being used.

4. Ask the seller if the fish have been medicated, for what, with what and for how long. This will limit what or if you can use anything without toxing them out at home. It also gives you an idea of how sick the fish were. Be sure to ask if they use salt as you will want to salt dip them when you get them home (you will actually have that all set up before you leave looking for fish!) When you get a fish, do not allow them to put anything in the bag except water and oxygen. If the trip is long, the water should just cover the fish in the bottom and the rest filled with oxygen. Make sure the bag is tight or a fish could get trapped in folds of the plastic.

5. Ask them where the fish came from, country of origin. Ask them when the fish arrived. If they just arrived, they could still die from stress of shipping, if they have been their awhile, they are probably resistant or immune to most diseases.

6. Look for a dorsal fin that is straight up. The pectoral fins should be evenly extended out from the sides (make sure all the fins are there!). Where the fins are placed varies a bit from fish to fish and pearls and long fins paddle with their pectorals. There should be two anal fins or one right in the middle. A fish with one anal fin off to one side means the other anal fin could be growing inside and kill the fish eventually. All the fins should be even as uneven fins could be an indication of recent fin rot, or worse, fin rot in progress. Look at the edges of all the fins for unevenness.
Look for smooth backs on fish, ranchus should be nearly a perfect half circle and the tail tucked in low, lionheads are a bit longer and the tail is not set as low. But there should be no odd bumps along the back. Now, look at the fish swimming and see if the lateral line of the fish is even in the water, no tilting to one side or the other. Check to see that the fish is nicely rounded. Those whose bodies appear too small for their heads could have skinny disease and will die. The exception are fish with hoods (wen) and their heads may be much larger than the body. Last, let them get the fish in the bag, then check the gills to make sure they are bright red, check the anal port to make sure there is no redness or oozing and it isn't protruding (a female that is spawning could have an "outie" a bit, but no redness). Check the outside of the mouth really closely to make sure there is no redness or white strings (columnaris) and try to see inside the mouth for the same. Check the eyes for white flecks (brain flukes). Feel the slime coat, too heavy is parasites, dry is columnaris. You may have to ask them for a bright light to be able to do a good physical. http://puregold.aquaria.net/care/care1.htm#buying a new goldfish

Chronology of change (mutations) of GF

All morphological changes from the wild type are the result of genetic mutations which man has spotted and favoured by selective line breeding to perpetuate them according to his fancy, although there is a strong tendency to revert to wild type. Human husbandry of this species has unlocked its huge genetic potential, but it has taken a tremendous amount of effort to select and stabilize desirable gene combinations, as can be appreciated from the 1700-year chronology given below:

• Chun d. (265-419) gold colouration first recorded (d. = dynasty)
• Tang d. (618-907) goldfish raised in captivity (in ponds) in Buddhist monasteries; common goldfish probably established
• Nan Song d. (1127-1279) goldfish raised in domestic ponds; white and red-and-white colouration developed
• Ming d. (1368-1644) goldfish raised in bowls indoors as pets, enabling selection for mutations that would not have survived (or been observed) in ponds; double tail and anal fins, dorsal-less condition and short body evolved, eggfish developed
• 1590 red cap
• 1592 globe eye
• 1596 matt scales and calico colouration; keeping of fancy goldfish, once the preserve of the aristocracy, now widespread.
• 1603 goldfish first exported to Japan
• 1611 goldfish first exported to Europe (Portugal)
• Ching d. (1644-1911) bronze and blue colouration
• 1728 goldfish first bred in Europe (Holland)
• 1870 celestial
• 1874 goldfish first exported to America
• 1893 oranda/tigerhead
• 1900 pompon and pearlscale; shubunkin colouration developed in Japan
• 1908 bubble eye
• 1911 curled operculum early 1900s comet and veiltail
• 1934 Bristol shubunkin standard promulgated http://www.bristol-aquarists.org.uk/goldfish/info/info.htm

Goldfish Varieties

There are, in fact, dozens of varieties of goldfish. These range from the Common Goldfish to multicolored varieties. Some of these varieties are not even available in the United States. The fish listed below are some of the most widely known varieties. Sizes are listed, but it should be noted that these are averages only ... any variety can grow beyond these lengths if given good care. Although different varieties can be mixed in the same tank, it is suggested that slow varieties be kept separately from the fast varieties to avoid conflict during feeding time.

Common Goldfish This is the hardiest variety. The Common Goldfish is most often a bright orange color, but can also be yellow, silver, brown, or a mix of these. It has a stout body and a rounded caudal fin. This fish can grow to 8 inches long or longer if given good care and enough room. Water temperature should be from 33 - 68 degrees F. The Common Goldfish is an excellent choice for a pond.

Comet Goldfish Similar to the Common Goldfish, the Comet often displays the same coloration. Comets are longer and thinner than the Common Goldfish, and its caudal fin is much longer. Its shape allows it great speed which it can sustain for brief periods. The Comet may also grow to be quite long, given the space, but will not reach the same size of the Common Goldfish. Water temperature should be from 46 - 68 degrees F. An excellent pond fish.

Fantail Goldfish The Fantail variety has a rounded egg-shaped body and a twintail. It is a slow swimmer. This fish is among the smaller goldfish, a full-size fish being close to 4 inches long. This fish should be kept at 46 - 68 degrees F and should live in very clean water.

Oranda The Oranda is most often orange or red and may have some white as well. When it reaches adulthood, the Oranda grows a red 'hood' over its head. A full-sized fish is about 5 inches long. These fish are best kept between 46 and 68 degrees F, and in very clean water. It is a slow swimmer.

Lionhead Goldfish This fish is stout and has a typically gold or yellow color. The Lionhead can be identified by the fact that it has no dorsal fin. This fish can reach 5 inches at full size, requires very clean water, and temperatures ranging from 46 - 71 degrees F.

Celestial Goldfish This fish is identified by its gold color, lack of a dorsal fin, and small, upturned eyes. A Celestial should only ever be kept with other Celestials. These fish reach up to 5 inches when they reach adult size. They should be kept in very clean water, and at temperatures from 46 - 71 degrees F.

Veiltail The Veiltail is most often orange, although it may also be white or silver. This fish may grow to about 4 inches in length. The Veiltail's most striking feature, as its name implies, is the beautiful, flowing tail. The Veiltail also has a somewhat slimmer body than the Fantail or Common Goldfish. This fish requires very clean water from 46 - 68 degrees.

Bristol Shubunkin This variety can have varied coloration from blue to orange, black, purple, yellow, brown, red, or some combination of these. As adults, these fish reach about 5 inches in length. They should be kept at 32 - 68 degrees F. A good pond fish.

London Shubunkin This typically blue fish can grow to 8 inches or larger. The London Shubunkin has a body shape similar to the Common Goldfish. It should be kept in water from 32 - 68 degrees F.

Moor Also called the Black Moor or Telescope Moor, this goldfish is mostly black, although it may also have some gold coloration. The Moor's eyes stick out on the sides - a very interesting characteristic. The Moor should be kept in very clean water from 46 - 68 degrees F.   http://www.petlibrary.com/goldfish/variety.htm

Mini-Seminar by Dr. Sandra Yosha

On a very rainy June 22 several club members attended the presentation by Dr. Sandra Yosha at the home of Rick O’Shea. Jon Lockerman set up the mini-seminar. After Rick told us about his pond and its liner made of carpet treated with fiberglass Sandy took over.

Her presentation was titles Koi Health Assessment and Quarantine which covered a large area and was quite eclectic. She touched so many topics it would impossible to mention them all here, but some items of interest were:

• Good water is always better an any treatment
• The more water you have for each fish the better off the fish will be.
• If you don’t decrease your fish load, Nature will take care of it for you.
• Chlorine can get into well water if a well nearby has been treated.
• Chlorine and Chloimine burn fish gills.
• PH of 6.8-8.5 is fine for koi but, pH swings are not. Keep your pH stable, even if it is high.
• Fish metabolism tends to lower pH but a well buffered pond handles this naturally.
• Ammonia is far more toxic in high pH water.
• Observe your fish often to know what normal behavior looks like.
• Use a mirror on the pond bottom to examine the underside of your fish.
• Flashing has many causes, many of them harmless.
• Evaluate fish behavior to detect problems.
• Putting in water from a submerged hose or from well water may cause gas bubble disease. Always spray the water into the pond to overcome these problems.
• Obese fish are as unhealthy and subject to disease.
• Stop feeding after water temperature drops the 55F. Koi should fast through winter to reduce excess fat and to reduce egg bound females.
• Bacterial infection is usually a secondary disease and antibiotics should be the last treatment, not the first.
• All medications related to fish are temperature dependent. No medication works below 55F..
• Quarantine for 3 months should catch 97% of fish disease problems.
• Japanese style koi shows are easier to judge but, fish are more likely to contract a disease.
• The recently occurring mouth rot disease that has arrived from Japan is apparently resistant to all commonly used antibiotics.
• Koi Herpes Virus came from Israel. It attacks the gills and fish die in 48 hrs.
• Never use salt in your pond that contains a rust protection chemical.

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