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Apr 2003

21 Years of Koi Keeping

Selected Articles 

From the President

Secretary Reports

Filtration Philosophy and Design

KOI FRIENDS INDEED

Beautiful and Agile

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Map to Next Meeting

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From the President to the N. F.K C. Members: 

Thank you to all that braved the weather. When the meeting started the weather cooperated and we were able to have the meeting outside. Thanks to Pat and Joanne Rutherford for hosting the meeting.

I have to say this has been a very solemn couple of weeks after the passing of Sandee Todorsky. I presented Todo with a mug that was in scribed “LONGFIN AWARD IN MEMORY OF SANDEE TODORSKY 1949-2003”. The club logo was on it as well. Some very thoughtful members donated this award. The award was to be given at the AFKAPS banquet ceremony, which was awarded to Wilda Pawlak for her outstanding longfin.

I want to thank Jim Roberts on his very informative talk on what are Koi are telling us. I’m sure plenty of us learned a thing or two.

Our next meeting we will discuss water quality and how to maintain a healthy pond. This will be given by Dave Brown our water quality expert.

Well AFKAPS has come and gone. I did make the trip but it was very tiring for me with my back problem. I thoroughly enjoyed every part of the show and can’t wait for next year’s show to come. Over 30 participants represented our club and many that actually worked the show. Sherri Brown, Dave brown, Jim Roberts, Todo Todorsky, Jan Brown, these are the people who were directly involved with the Koi show aspect. The Director told me that this group was invaluable to the success of the show. There were countless others who made this show work so well but trying to find the space to list them all is hard to find. I want to thank each club member who went to AFKAPS and hope that next time there will be even more than this year. From the feed back I have received so far the show was a great success. Thanks to all of you who participated!

Well it’s time for our young Koi show and Dan has done a great job so far getting things ready. Let’s all support the show and Dan by coming out to it and looking at all the Koi and don’t forget the Auction that will be selling Koi. We also will have goods for sale as well. The show is April 19th; it’s a Saturday a week from our next meeting. So plan ahead to be there. Be ready to submit your entry for the show by this meeting. Hope everyone can show his or her Koi. There is no fee for entering your Koi in this show. Thank you to all our members and till we meet again, Tim Gasson President 2002-2003

 Secretary's   Report By Todo   28 Members and guests

Tim opened the meeting with an announcement that the club would give a special Longfin award at AFKAPS in Sandee Todorsky’s name. The Treasures and Sec. Reports where approved. An additional plea for AFKAPS volunteers was made. Dan outlined the particulars for the Young Fish Show on April 19th at Reeds & Rocks. Benching at 7:00, Show at 9:00 and Judging at 10:00. There will also be silent and regular auctions.

The Koi show site committee reported that they found the World Golf Village could be had fort he show. After discussion it was voted in that we would hold our show there.

Jim Roberts lead a discussion on Fish Observation and what to look for if your koi are in trouble. The Stuarts from England visited the club and helped JoAnne with an ill fish..

Filtration Philosophy and Design   By James P. Reilly – Nishikigoi International – Koimag. com

One of the wonderful things about koi keeping is the fact that it offers the hobbyist so may different avenues of pursuit. Some become captivated with the excitement of the show, while others enjoy the more leisurely activity of landscaping and pond maintenance. Others try their hand at breeding a “homegrown” grand champion. For me, the study of water quality is the hook. I have enjoyed incorporating ideas from many sources into a single, efficient filtration system.

As I designed by system, I tried to incorporate three universal filtration concepts: 1) mechanical/sump; 2) biological filtration; 3) chemical/other support devices.

Mechanical filtration and sump tanks struck me as concepts that worked well for others, so I made no attempt to depart from conventional wisdom. The principle of trapping and removing debris on a regular basis before it decomposes seemed sound. Since cylindrical sumps are unavailable in my area, I opted for a long ten foot, in ground, rectangular sump with a pitched bottom. Water enters in the deepest end, then baffles are used to slow down water movement and allow debris to settle out of suspension. Further along, screens and brushes accumulate any floating particles. At the shallow end, water exits through one-and-a-half inch pick-ups, which are covered with removable foam sleeves.

As pleased as I was with the conventional sump, I found I was very disappointed with the gavel and lava rock biofilters that are commonly recommended. The side effects of suck a system were unacceptable. Limited surface space, channeling problems, low oxygen levels, anaerobic activity, hydrogen sulfide gas release and high maintenance were all problems I hoped to avoid. I eventually settled on a plastic media used extensively in many state–of –the art fish hatcheries and public aquariums in the U.S. This one-inch sphere, called a bioball is the heart of my bio-filter. I further enhanced its performance by incorporating a trickle tower portion to the submerged biofilter. I did this because, when oxygen levels are low, decay is accomplished anaerobically. This recirculation system guarantees an oxygen rich environment for maximum aerobic activity.

For those no familiar with the new generation of plastic media, it is superior to traditional media in many ways:

Plastic is lightweight, which makes it easy to transport and work with. At a pinch, media can be transferred to another pond or isolation vat to create an instant biofilter.

Plastic media has tremendous surface space – 105 sq. ft. per cubic foot for bacteria to grow on, as opposed to gravel with about 18 sq.ft. per cubic foot. More importantly, this media offers bacteria space to grow on, not in. This is the key point, I believe, when one is interested in maximum gas exchange and no clogging.

Excellent void space (92%). Due to the configuration of this material, natural void space is created. This allows for maximum flow rated and good delivery of oxygen molecules to the bacteria. Channeling and clogging are no longer issues because debris is not trapped as easily as in stone media, the need for frequent cleaning and the inevitable disruption of the bacteria bed that results, can be avoided.

The actual choice between the various plastic and glass materials on the market was narrowed down by a comparison of surface space, void space and packing properties is another important criteria, Some have tried using plastic hair curlers, PVC chips and pot scrubbers as substitutes for the plastic media designed specifically for aqua culture purposes, but when pieces of homemade products are placed together in a container, and the force of moving water is applied these materials tend to pack too tightly. This encourages trapping of solids and the channeling of just the things we are trying to avoid. As the trapping of solids continues, oxygen levels in the filter drop and the bacteria count is reduced.

There are a few adjustments one must make when using plastic media. Since plastic provides for faster flow rates, bacteria tens to take longer to affix itself. Once diatoms have stained the plastic surface, bacteria will establish itself. I have also found it necessary to split the flow rate into two spray bars to avoid water sheer. The force of water pouring on to the media can actually wash away bacteria. By using a thin layer of mattridge and the drip plate design, I have avoided the effects of water sheer. At the same time the darkened environment created by the mattridge cover encourages good bacteria growth. I should point out that the mattridge is in no way utilized for its biological filter properties. If anything, it is used as an additional pre-filter and is changed /cleaned weekly. The spray bars and drip plate also serve to distribute water evenly over the filter surface, ensuring that no part of the filter is unused. Some of the drawbacks of bioballs, I can only point out one. Due to excellent void spaces, bioballs have little or no ability to polish water or remove fine debris. This problem can be dealt with by the use of foam fractionators and an additional pre-filter in the mechanical section of the filter.

Early in the system’s design I decided that if the biofilter was efficient, any other device should only function as an aid to create a synergistic effect on overall water quality. In pursuing this goal, I included a series of foam fractionators as a watch dog device. Three counter-current venturifoam fractionators do an excellent job of removing algae, food particles and other organic matter before they have a chance to breakdown and reduce oxygen levels, thereby putting an extra burden on the biofilter.

The one thing fractionators will not remove is the yellow/brown tinge sometimes found in ponds. The sources of gilvin, as it is frequently called, are open to debate. Some feel that it may actually be a by-produce of normal bacterial activity in the presence of carbohydrates. Others believe it is the product of algae and waste decomposition. Whatever the cause, the only two ways I have found to remove it is by chemical filtration, such as polyfilters.

The only other device I rely on is ultraviolet light. The unit I use consists of four 30-watt bulbs, which allow for maximum kill. This device, along with the foam fractionator, insures against early spring algae blooms and aids in the reduction of free floating bacteria populations.

I am very encouraged by the results of my filtration system. My koi are growing well and the colors are good. I have attempted to duplicate the major principles of my large filter into a homemade all in one unit for my indoor pond. I should point out that as pleased as I am with this filter design, I still remain a strong believer in water changes. Approximately a ten- percent water change is done on a weekly basis, in addition to daily draining of the sump.

Copyright 2002 Nishikigoi International, Ltd.

KOI FRIENDS INDEED By Ed Kellar

The Near Disaster –Last Saturday night Feb 22 was a real lesson in the value of belonging to a club with such great koi friends and emergency resources. You may recall, we had a pretty serious storm front move through the area late that afternoon. I had gone into town from my Archer abode and was happily doing an extended mall crawl and movie evening, oblivious to what was happening at home. Little did I know that a tree limb had speared a fist size hole in my 12,000 gallon liner pond and the level was dropping rapidly!

Fortunately, my roomie ( and Pondhopper ex-President, Sebastian Camillo) was leaving around 6 pm and spotted the impending disaster. Unfortunately, his efforts to find me did not succeed. They did, however, reach Don Hellard and Art Manaker. Before the 3.5 pond was down to knee deep, these two heroes had mobilized with Don’s trailer and two hard side poly tanks and starting to transfer koi . When I got word around 7:30, it was just in time to run home and help with the last hour of transfers. By 9:30 -10:00 pm all 37 of my medium to jumbo koi were temporarily at home in Amquel treated water, complete with net covers. Whew! Even in knee-deep water with two larege koi nets, it is a slow process to safely catch koi in a 24 ft diameter pool. By 10:30 –11:00 pm everyone had wound down and made it home. Guys , me and my koi really owe ya.

Aftermath and lessons learned – Luckily I’m on a well because the 400 gal and 200 gal tanks require daily 10 -25% water changes to keep everyone happy/ I also split some koi into a third 500 gal. stock tank to even the load. The next day and most of the week were needed to clean algae from the liner, perform patching, and ready the system for leak testing and re-startng. Since it’s early Spring, I also used the downtime to de-sludge the filter system and make some long overdue piping improvements. So far so good, no koi and only a couple of scales lost.

In hindsight, here are some observations and lessons for the future in no particular order, not including medical treatment of koi because thankfully none were injured in the process:

Never put off trimming dead limbs or trees anywhere near a pond. I know, stay away from trees in the first place! Somehow they grow near the ponds.

Your emergency tanks and aerators are always loaned out or in need of repairs or fittings, extra extension cords, etc. when you need them, i.e. plan for the worst, but don’t forget the Pondhoppers have emergency equipment, including collapsible tanks. Don’t forget tank covers. There is nothing worse than rescuing a valuable koi and losing it because it jumped out of an unfamiliar place. In a pinch, float a piece of Styrofoam for a comfortable koi heaven to help keep them calmed.) Pg 8

Have a seine net longer than your pond diameter that can be used to easily isolate the koi in a small area away from rocks, intake structures, or anything else than can damage the fish or impede net handling. Also unless your poly tank has a drain you will need a transfer pump for water changes, and a discharge line long enough to avoid flooding the back patio.

Keep a stock of treatment chemicals, and sufficient patch kit materials always on-hand. This should probably include some rubber seam tape and an underwater patch hit. I’m also partial to 3M Marine 5200 adhesive sealant available at Home Depot for piping or bulkhead leaks. If you can’t move the fish at least have something to cover or plug the worst leak- slow down the water loss rate to buy time. Be prepared to go wading, and always wear rubber sandals, etc. to avoid nasty slipfalls on algae covered liners..

These things NEVER seem to happen in daylight or with sufficient time for daytime repairs thank goodness for my deck spotlights, but good hand or work lights are critical too. Be prepared for the extra daily effort involved in taking care of koi in tanks for a few days at least.

ALWAYS check your pond immediately after a storm or if possible have someone verify pumps, breakers, etc are all OK and operating. I’ve had lawn furniture and large pots blown into the pond on more than one occasion-prepare for storms. Unguided missles make holes! Consider what you would do if you lost your entire pond volume- would your hospital tank system handle the crisis?

Call in or leave a telephone number posted-preferable a cell that is always on, have backup contacts for emergency help, and…

Think about helping out your fellow Pondhoppers by taking care of their pons when they need help. We all go on vacation sometime. Get to know pond systems other than your own, and see how others cope. It’s fun, and will never fail to add to your friendship and being koi kichi. Besides you never know when you’ll need some real Koi Friends indeed…

Beautiful and Agile By Phil Turmuck

For hundreds of years koi have been prized for their grace and beauty. Worldwide shows challenge owners to offer their best specimens for head to head competition seeking the illusive Grand Champion award. However, koi from some Florida clubs compete at more rigorous koi agility trials.

Over the past decade several clubs constructed especially designed koi ponds across the state and stage a series of roving agility matches. The championships are held at the premier koi facility of the North Florida Koi Club, outside Jacksonville.

Keepers from across the SouthEast bring koi of all sizes housed in large portable ponds to these matches. Once introduced to the agility pond the koi have 20 min. to accomplish several feats in order. Points are awarded for the number of feats done, how close they are done to the prescribed order and speed. As in horse or dog trials, time faults are awarded for missed stations or ones done out of order.

The tasks are: swimming through a 1 ft pipe with a right angle turn; ringing a bell by either pulling a rope dangling in the water or simply jumping up and hitting the bell; pushing a glass koi ball between two goals; negotiating several obstacles in a shallow section only inches deep and finally jumping through a hoop suspended above the pond.

Owners cannot enter the water, but can use floating or sinking food to encourage the desired behavior. Extremely pungent fish bait wrapped at the end of bamboo poles are also held out over the pond to help maneuver the fish.

Last year’s Grand Champion, Dicky Mobe a 22 inch Hi Shusui owned by Al G. & Hyacinth Ducwead set the all time (pg 8)

speed record with a perfect round in 6 min. 13 sec. She is currently ahead in points and is odds on favorite to repeat this year.

“The fish love doing their tricks and we love showing them off,” said Hyacinth. “You can tell they know when they’ve done well.”

“It’s not about the winning. It’s about the good people we meet and the competition. Our fish look better and take on a great sheen when they’re competing,” Al declared.

There are 6 size classes with slightly different rules for each. Any koi can enter and some of the best ones were considered just pond fish before the agility trials. For more information on koi agility contact the Koi Agility Ranking & Placement Society (KARPS), Attn. Walter Falls or Florence Wrate at the NFKC web site.