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DEALING WITH THE PONDKEEPER’S BANE Algae Remedies: Greenwater is with us every spring and from conversations with club members I see that this year is no different. So, for all you algae-lovers out there, here’s the obligatory greenwater article. Via Ponds & Garden, April 2001 Algae is a green plant, albeit microscopic, that needs sunlight and nutrients to survive. Controlling this pondkeeper’s bane requires deprivation of either light or food, or both.. Be Patient...Even if your pond is not overstocked with fish, spring often brings a touch of string algae followed by green water... until the pond’s plants have fully reawakened. Patience is the key; wait it out as the pond balances on its own. Of course, performing a partial water exchange may temporarily alleviate the algae bloom, but until the pond plants are awake and out-competing the algae for the pond’s nutrients, the algae bloom will return. A Clean Pond -- If fish wastes and particulate organic matter, commonly known as silt or muck, accumulate on the pond bottom or in gravel pockets within the pond, you may as well incorporate your own algae business. These organic wastes, through their decomposition and role in the Nitrogen Cycle, supply a continual source of nutrients to the water...fostering continual algae blooms and slimy, string algae. Regularly vacuuming the pond bottom in conjunction with partial water exchanges prevents such build-ups and their resultant algae problems, as does the use of bottom-drain systems. Eco-Balance -- Although many sources cite a list of quantities of various types of aquatic plants to be stocked in the pond to achieve ‘eco-balance’, even a full-sun pond can remain free of algae with only enough submerged grasses or floating hyacinths to out-compete f or nutrients. One bunch per square foot of water surface of submerged anacharis, Eoldea, or coontail (free-floating-but submerged Ceratophyllum demersum) will keep the pond water free of algae as long as the pond is not over-stocked with fish. Northern ponds should use Elodea canadensis which is more tolerant of cold water than the South American native, anacharis. Elodea often breaks dormancy and begins removing nutrients from the water at the same time as traditional algae blooms. It is possible with the proper amount of Elodea to not experience an algae bloom at all. Water Wyche -- Another way to remove excess nutrients from the pond water is the new Water Wyche (R). Its natural media absorbs the water’s nutrients so long as the water’s pH is in a neutral range below 8.0 pH. Remaining effective for 3 or 4 months, the Water Wyche (R) naturally removes nutrients created by fish that nibble away your submerged aquatics. Barley Straw -- An effective prevention of algae growth is the use of barley straw. Generally most effective at prevention when used from November through spring, it seems to keep the algae at bay during the season with the assistance of aquatic plants. The straw should be removed from the pond before it starts to decompose and begins adding nutrients to the water. Many people include barley straw as a media layer in the bio-filter where it is out of sight. Shading the Water -- Many botanical gardens attack algae by depriving it of sunlight with water dyes. These dyes shade the water in either blue or black. Especially in the early spring, such shading inhibits the growth of aquatic plants. Move them closer to the water’s surface until they are established and can survive at normal depths. Shade can also be supplied with surface-covering plants such as water lily leaves and floating plants like water hyacinth. Remember, however, that the pond’s primary source of oxygen is at the water’s surface. Too much surface coverage can result in low oxygen levels, your fish advising you of the fact by gasping or gathering at the surface and at waterfall entries. You’ll need to provide additional aeration and/or reduce the amount of fish in the pond, if you maintain extensive surface coverage. Yet another way to shade the pond surface is with a canopy of shade cloth or lattice. Koi Pondkeepers often use this method that also protects the koi’s colors and shields them from view of overflying predators. Northern water gardens find this method inhibits the growth of many flowering aquatics, while southern water gardeners find that partial shade of lattices protects flowering aquatics from excessive heat and oppressive sunlight. Mechanical Algae Removal -- Twirling a stick or brush in the water is the best way to rid the pond of string algae. Shutting down the waterfall and using a scrub brush (with no soap or chemicals) satisfies fastidious Pondkeepers. Ultra-Violet light kills free-floating, green water algae as the cycling pond water flows past it. The algae cells are damaged by the light and die within the pond. Cleaning their debris from the pond bottom prevents it from feeding future algae blooms. UV lights also kill the free-swimming stage of many parasites, as well as any bacteria in the flowing water. To protect the beneficial bacteria in the pond, the UV light is set up after the bio-filter in the pond’s plumbing scheme. Chemical Controls? -- Do not use chemicals to kill the algae since most algicides are based on one of two chemicals; copper sulfate or simazine. Copper sulfate also effects other aquatic plants in the pond, particularly submerged grasses, floating aquatics, and more sensitive water lilies. Simazine is not recommended in the presence of fish. |
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