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Leak Detection Looking for a lead uses much the same methods as we use in other troubleshooting. We isolate segments of the system in order to eliminate the parts that work and what we have left is the problem area. Whenever you check for water loss, let the water run for a while so the system is balanced before taking any measurements. The first question is whether the pond is loosing water all the time or only if the pump is running. If you are loosing water only when the pump is on, then the leak is after the pump, probably in the waterfall. Likely problems are: · Plants or other debris has ‘dammed up’ parts of the streambed thus causing the water to overflow.· If you have a liner streambed, possible the edge has bee pushed down allowing water to escape.· If you have a concrete streambed there may be a crack in the concrete. Usually the cracks are bigger on the edges and smaller in the middle. If you have a crack on one side of the streambed, be sure the check or the opposite side. Often the cracks are at the thinnest part of the streambed or where the streambed meets the pond. These cracks are caused because the dirt below the streambed has settled.· If rock were mortared together with the idea that this joint would hold water, you’ve got problems. You may be able to find the leaks but they could be very numerous. Often they are found on the lower side of the rocks because the mortar slumped away while still wet. You may want to consider taking it all out and putting a liner underneath and redoing it.If you are losing water all the time, even when the pump is off, the problem is found below the water line. This may be in the pond or in any plumbing below the water level. For a system with an external pump, segment the system further by plugging or capping the pipe going to the pump. This can be done inside many skimmers with a male fitting and a piece of pipe that extends above water level. If you have a three-way valve on the return, close the side that goes back to the pond (thus separating the pond from the plumbing). With this method, you can look down the pipe to see if the water level changes within the pipe or remains the same. If the water level goes down look further at the plumbing. Hopefully you don’t have to do much digging. Look for areas that remain wet, even down hill from the site. If you lose water when the pump is off and get a lot of air in the leaf trap and filter, the leak may be on the intake side of the pump. If you don’t get air in the filter, the leak should be after the pump but still below the water level of the pond. If none of these tests have isolated the leak then the only place left is the pond itself. Allow the water level to drop below the perimeter shelf if you have one. If the water level keeps dropping, the leak is still lower. If you are patient, you can wait for the water level to stop falling. When it does, you have found the lowest part of the leak. Look around the water level for the problem. You may need to put the fish in a temporary tank while proceeding. In concrete ponds, look for cracks, areas that stay wet, and check around any pipes skimmers and bottom drains for loose concrete or gaps. A lot of times if you start poking around with an old screwdriver or ice pick you can dislodge pieces of concrete and soon push the tool up to the handle. If the water level stops going down at the perimeter shelf, that’s where the leak is. Depending upon your situation, you may dig some hole outside the perimeter to see which ones fill with water and which remain dry. In those with water, see from which way the water enters. This may take emptying it a few times and patience. PF Pro’s – The Pond & Fountain Professionals Reprinted from The Inland Koi Connection |
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